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frankfast
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Post subject: Replacing Fork Oil Posted: Tue May 17, 2016 12:02 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2014 11:44 am Posts: 74
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I want to replace the fork oil on my Laguna. There are three screws at the bottom of each leg (one horizontal and two facing downward). Which one drains the oil and what is the purpose of the other two? I can't find any info on these legs.
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flattop900
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Post subject: Re: Replacing Fork Oil Posted: Tue May 17, 2016 1:19 pm |
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:03 am Posts: 371
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Page 144 in the workshop manual shows the horizontal screw being removed. Ducati Meccanica and Bevel Heaven have online manuals.
Flattop900
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frankfast
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Post subject: Re: Replacing Fork Oil Posted: Tue May 17, 2016 4:30 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2014 11:44 am Posts: 74
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Thanks. I have the manual but never use it much. For the most part it's pretty useless.
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frankfast
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Post subject: Re: Replacing Fork Oil Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 1:07 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2014 11:44 am Posts: 74
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Ok, took out the drain screw and removed the top cap, spacer and spring in one tube only. Left the other one assembled. Pumped the front forks and no oil came from the drain. I can see oil in the tube when I pump the front forks. This is the method I've always used to replace fork oil. Why won't oil drain?
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618F1
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Post subject: Re: Replacing Fork Oil Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 7:25 pm |
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Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:23 am Posts: 1832
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There are two side-by-side. I believe it should drain out of the one on the inside of the fork. Remove it, just let it sit, and walk away for a while. Put something under it to catch the fluid; maybe you can use that for refill amount. MikeV
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frankfast
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Post subject: Re: Replacing Fork Oil Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 7:02 am |
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Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2014 11:44 am Posts: 74
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According to Flattop and the workshop manual, the drain screw is the one at the front bottom of each leg and not either of the two at the bottoms of the legs. But that screw doesn't drain the oil. There is no reference for the two screws at the bottom of the leg but I agree that one of them will drain the oil. Will try it.
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flattop900
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Post subject: Re: Replacing Fork Oil Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 9:27 am |
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:03 am Posts: 371
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Hi Frankfast... I just removed the screws in a set of forks I have. It is indeed the inside lower screw. I removed the horizontal one and nothing. You were 100% right....the manual is useless. I think I downloaded a manual on these forks sometime in the past, but I'll have to resurrect some old hard drives to see if I have it. Regards... Flattop900
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pantah_good
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Post subject: Re: Replacing Fork Oil Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 10:24 am |
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Joined: Fri Oct 15, 2010 12:20 pm Posts: 1275 Location: Vermont, USA
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Hi Frankfast, Note - the left hand slider is pictured, the right hand one will be mirrored. The drain is the hole with the screw removed of the pair that are on a 45 degree angle. The screw next to it has a very small spring and ball under it, and the single screw above the pair is for manufacturing. Turn the adjustment barrel to position number one (#1) to drain the oil. There may be some grunge blocking the drain passage which could be cleared with a soft wire. If you ever need to disassemble the barrel, it is in two halves which unscrew with normal r/h threads using the hex socket at each end. Bill
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IMG_5756.JPG [ 177.68 KiB | Viewed 2026 times ]
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Last edited by pantah_good on Fri May 20, 2016 11:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
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flattop900
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Post subject: Re: Replacing Fork Oil Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 10:28 am |
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:03 am Posts: 371
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Not a manual just an exploded view.
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F1 fork exploded.jpg [ 47.11 KiB | Viewed 2026 times ]
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frankfast
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Post subject: Re: Replacing Fork Oil Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 5:34 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2014 11:44 am Posts: 74
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Thanks guys. I replaced the oil today. The innermost of the two screws at the bottom of each leg is indeed the drain screw. I also unscrewed the top cap of the leg to release pressure allowing the fluid to drain better. It's a bit tricky to get the rod connected to the cap back into the proper location. This rod sets rebound damping and must coordinate with the numbers on the top cap after installed. Everything is back together. On to flushing the brake and hydraulic clutch fluid. All of this should have been last winters project.
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