Clay, we will address what is going on - on the PC screen in another thread. That shot is AFTER the manifold was tightened. Reason for different readings to verify that HHD (Hand Held Dyno) is providing readings so I know which DIAL I am looking at. Later I will do a video of an amateur (ME!) tuning the engine

Hi Graeme, The issue has been resolved

I will summarise at top of thread.

The coils need to be of the "Inductive" type - same as on modern cars. E.g. If the coil is designed for a CDI it should NOT be used on my system.

If Dyna make an "Inductive" coil - which I am sure they would, you can use that.

YES! I already have a Max REV LIMITER FEATURE! Currently working on a START LIMITER.

HAND HELD DYNO comes STANDARD with a DATALOGGER

Close, but no Kewpie doll

SUMMARY TIME

The cylinder temp issue was beyond me so to play it safe I took the bike to Gowanloch Ducati to verify ignition / cam timing etc were all to spec. I gave Mike (Owner of Gowanlochs) the heads-up about the temp issue - he checked everything and gave me the bike back running PERFECTLY. However he was at a loss as to why the difference in Cylinder temp. He could not offer which cylinder was running at normal temperature

That evening I learnt that the rear cylinder (the hotter one) was running at normal temp. Like I said the bike ran perfectly & nothing except for my Hand Held Dyno reporting the difference in cylinder temp gave me the heads-up that I had anything to worry about next ride.

The NEXT day I notice that the Oil Sight Glass is indicating OVER FULL. Yup, you guessed it - float issue NOTE: This not down to Gowanlochs... just an unfortunate coincidence that I hadn't turned the taps off & it bled overnight. FYI This was a completely NEW set of carbs. The temp difference issue occurred with BOTH old & new carbs.
Next - I have the front carb off & I know the issue is with the front cylinder (and not the front carb) the only thing I can do within my skills is remove the manifold... LOOSE!
Obviously I have found the cause of the issue EVEN though it ran contrary to my understanding that LEAN = HOT.
I replace the manifold seal, tightened it up & tested. TEMP ISSUE RESOLVED!

SO! Why did the LEAN condition cause a COLD combustion?

This question got stuck in my craw! So I searched the Internet for an answer and found it!

To understand the chart I designed below, think about lighting your Oxy/Acetylene torch. You light the Acetylene first - 100% RICH Mixture. Next you add Oxygen - and thus LEAN the Mixture until you get the IDEAL -Air/Fuel Ratio- which produces the MAXIMUM HEAT. NOW, What happens WHEN you LEAN the MIXTURE with a fraction more OXYGEN? Does the flame get HOTTER or COLDER?

When you follow the RED line (EGT) you see that it PEAKS in temperature & then gets COLDER as the GREEN line (AFR) gets leaner!! As the Oxy/Acetylene would also do!

The GREEN line is AFR (Mixture) Left to right is Rich to Lean.

Take note of the Two columns - PURPLE represents the tuning values that produces most HORSEPOWER YELLOW best fuel economy.

Now, with MY BIKE... the REAR cylinder MIXTURE would line up where the RED line crosses the PURPLE (horsepower column) before PEAK EGT!

MY FRONT cylinder however was running on the LEAN SIDE OF PEAK EGT where the RED line it crosses the BEST FUEL ECONOMY column.

Now look at the BLUE ENGINE HORSEPOWER line. WHAT DO YOU NOTICE? Papers on my desk first thing tomorrow morning

Once again the attached PDF is clearer

Thanx for doing all that technical work/charts, etc. You are a mad man.....this data makes sense to me. The sweet spot on AFR for making horsepower being south of the 14 mark. I guess the point that lean makes heat is not really a myth.....its true up to a point . And...someone mentioned the 2 strokers.....but they also have the complication that when lean your are getting less oiling too.

Having looked at all this data......dont you almost have to back in to what the right afr and egt is since no one seems to know exactly(not even Gowanlochs) The chart has the reasonable parameters, seems like the best approach is to tune on a horsepower dyno. Get the max you can get out of the motor and then see what all of the other parameters are. Then you have a pretty good reference point for how these all work together. At this point where you have a good baseline, you could really get in to the fine tuning. For a baseline, should you tune for max horsepower of max torque?

Clay

Yup, if performance is what you are after start on the horsepower dyno. At the track you can verify your theories with my HHD.

Say for example in the Dyno room when you did your testing in Florida it was 35 Celsius @ sea level. You then head to your next meeting at Pikes Peak - How relevant are the Dyno results there? With the HHD you are not in the dark with any adjustments you make.

Back in the pits you can view the race on the data logger & see if your tune is losing steam half way up the mountain.

I am not an engine tuner so I am talking out my hat here My thinking is for the IOM TT maximum horsepower would be all you were interested in.
For a short track where a Ducati 600 Pantah is out gunning an RD350 I guess torque is king.

So, if you record BOTH Torque & Horsepower benchmarks on the horsepower Dyno you can now use the Hand Held Dyno to verify your tuning settings suit the requirements of the track.

Mike. Thanks for the effort of the detailed explanations. You had a lot of things happening at once, and that makes problem solving very difficult.

I had a NEW set of Dellortos flood every time I got to a track. Why? Because the choke assemblies were loose from the bodies, and thought they needed to refill the bowls every time I walked away, and flooded the ground at every chance. Finally, one day, back at the garage, I spotted this. Locktite on all 6 small screws solved that problem.

MikeV

A dyno doesn’t lie. Under a controlled environment you can take the necessary measurements and make changes to ignition and fueling while the engine is under a controlled load. A lean front cylinder running cold? 600 degree rear cylinder? Rolling road for me. Boucher.

All valid points Boucher.

Unfortunately I cannot see how a rolling road would have:

1 - identified that there was an issue in the first place.

2 - assisted in troubleshooting the issue.

My thinking behind the above is that Dynos can only test the AFR as it exits the tail pipe, and with a 2 into 1 exhaust system - how how do you know both Cylinders are running identical AFR?

Same goes for EGT - does your typical Dyno detect EGT for each cylinder? Therefore would it identify this specific issue? How would you know there was an issue?


Note: I am not a mechanic nor have I ever used a Dyno. I am asking these questions so I can understand more .

Note 2: My Hand Held Dyno has an O2, EGT & Vacuum Sensor for each cylinder. And many more features.

It stays fitted to the bike & informs where your Engine is at every time you start it.

Cheers Mike Arnott