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TT2
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Post subject: TT1 build Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 12:56 am |
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Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:14 pm Posts: 85 Images: 19 Location: Brisbane
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TT2
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Post subject: Re: TT1 build Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 3:01 am |
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Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:14 pm Posts: 85 Images: 19 Location: Brisbane
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TT2
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Post subject: Re: TT1 build Posted: Fri Jun 24, 2016 4:55 am |
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Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:14 pm Posts: 85 Images: 19 Location: Brisbane
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Time for a an update. There has been slow and steady progress, valves have been made, valve seats cut. Still need to have the heads ported, flowed, fly cut, carb manifolds made up. Then the rear wheel alignment and creating swing arm and wheel spacers.
Compared to the genuine 16"/18" shod TT2 we have the same swing arm to axle length but are 28mm longer in wheel base. Variance must be in the front trip clamp set up or perhaps in the frame headstock
Also 10mm higher in the rear ride height (probable shock length, but no biggie) May look for an affordable 40mm triple with eccentric cams for the steering stem.
Agshark muffler mated to a Aussie made replica header from SA should do the trick nicely.
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TT2
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Post subject: Re: TT1 build Posted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 2:41 am |
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Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:14 pm Posts: 85 Images: 19 Location: Brisbane
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618F1
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Post subject: Re: TT1 build Posted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:14 pm |
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Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:23 am Posts: 1861
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You are doing some really nice work there; well worth your time and patience.
Q: I see you have a set of lightened primary gears. And that extra holes are drilled in the center hub of the big gear---between the threaded holes. Do those holes go all the way through the gear, or stop short of that? I have a set with them drilled all the way through (by a well-known Pantah racer hot-rodder in the US), and cannot see how oil will NOT seep through behind the clutch basket. Have not decided how to solve this, and will not till I get there. But, how about you?
Thanks, MikeV
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nick gill
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Post subject: Re: TT1 build Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 6:09 am |
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Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:38 am Posts: 53 Location: New Zealand
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618F1 wrote: You are doing some really nice work there; well worth your time and patience.
Q: I see you have a set of lightened primary gears. And that extra holes are drilled in the center hub of the big gear---between the threaded holes. Do those holes go all the way through the gear, or stop short of that? I have a set with them drilled all the way through (by a well-known Pantah racer hot-rodder in the US), and cannot see how oil will NOT seep through behind the clutch basket. Have not decided how to solve this, and will not till I get there. But, how about you?
Thanks, MikeV Mike, How about pressing some aluminium rod into those through-holes. Standard practice in two stroke cranks. Epoxy cannot be trusted. Yet another example of feel-good modifications compromising otherwise good parts.
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TT2
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Post subject: Re: TT1 build Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 6:56 am |
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Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:14 pm Posts: 85 Images: 19 Location: Brisbane
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618F1 wrote: You are doing some really nice work there; well worth your time and patience.
Q: I see you have a set of lightened primary gears. And that extra holes are drilled in the center hub of the big gear---between the threaded holes. Do those holes go all the way through the gear, or stop short of that? I have a set with them drilled all the way through (by a well-known Pantah racer hot-rodder in the US), and cannot see how oil will NOT seep through behind the clutch basket. Have not decided how to solve this, and will not till I get there. But, how about you?
Thanks, MikeV Hi Mike, Apologies on the delay, to be honest I can't recall if they are all the way through. I bought all the lightened internals from Ed Millich in USA, I should have asked him to check the full set as the set that came ended up binding so I had to unfortunately discard some parts : ( Ed
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618F1
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Post subject: Re: TT1 build Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 1:04 pm |
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Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:23 am Posts: 1861
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I hope I have not given you nightmares now Ed, but that is exactly what I have, acquired second-hand from a different well-known (here) F1 builder. Cannot see how oil will not seep out. Let me know what Ed M says, or what happens when you fire it up.
Thanks for the comments Nick. Had considered epoxy (will not now), or set screws, or a very thin gasket - the latter works where the starter fits. Still, why is this necessary for a custom-modified part?
MikeV
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Sam
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Post subject: Re: TT1 build Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 4:47 pm |
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Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:50 am Posts: 87 Images: 1 Location: Scotland
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nick gill wrote: 618F1 wrote: You are doing some really nice work there; well worth your time and patience.
Q: I see you have a set of lightened primary gears. And that extra holes are drilled in the center hub of the big gear---between the threaded holes. Do those holes go all the way through the gear, or stop short of that? I have a set with them drilled all the way through (by a well-known Pantah racer hot-rodder in the US), and cannot see how oil will NOT seep through behind the clutch basket. Have not decided how to solve this, and will not till I get there. But, how about you?
Thanks, MikeV Mike, How about pressing some aluminium rod into those through-holes. Standard practice in two stroke cranks. Epoxy cannot be trusted. Yet another example of feel-good modifications compromising otherwise good parts. I used to use delrin or acetal in the crank not alloy when I raced TZ"s many moons ago, the reason in doing that was to increase crankcase pressure.
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nick gill
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Post subject: Re: TT1 build Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 9:44 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:38 am Posts: 53 Location: New Zealand
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Sam wrote: I used to use delrin or acetal in the crank not alloy when I raced TZ"s many moons ago, the reason in doing that was to increase crankcase pressure. Yes good point Sam, we used use Acetal (Delrin is just a dupont brand) in webs in the open upper halves, screw fixed onto the webs. It is no good as an interference material (plugs) and Ive had and seen factory installed plugs come out and it gets messy when they start clipping the conrod. Therefore the only materials we've ever plugged with is Tungsten alloy and aluminium. Nowadays we discard primary compression altogether and run full circle cranks (windage) in large crankcase volumes as part of an entirely different resonant induction scheme. In this instance (ducati) it is quite close to the center of rotation so you'd probably get away with it but I would still go for aluminium given the choice.
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