DUCATI TT and F1 FORUM
 
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 Post subject: TT1 build
PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 12:56 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 80
Images: 19
Location: Brisbane
Well time has come to consolidate, so I decided to sell of my Thersby TT2 frame and assembled it with all the spares and list it on ebay.

Meanwhile I grabbed one a 600TL engine of the floor with a verlicchi framed TT replica roller to start the conversion into a TT1.

The second verlicchi framed TT replica will get a makeover as a 650SL powered TT2

The good lads at Bikebuilders are doing all the dirty work for me, as I have the mechanical skills of a potato.

I'll pop some pics up as we go along


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File comment: The chassis with Ohlins rear shock and Ohlins damper, 40mm '89 Sports forks
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File comment: Cleaned case covers, need to lighten the clutch cover
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File comment: Cam covers from Sportsmotorcycles in NZ
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File comment: Nice clean bare block waiting for modded crank and carillo rods
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File comment: a sample of the lightened internals from Ed Millich
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File comment: Some tasty 88mm hi-comp Omega slugs
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Last edited by TT2 on Wed Mar 02, 2016 3:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Re: TT1 build
PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 3:01 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 80
Images: 19
Location: Brisbane
slow but steady progress


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 Post subject: Re: TT1 build
PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2016 4:55 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 80
Images: 19
Location: Brisbane
Time for a an update. There has been slow and steady progress, valves have been made, valve seats cut. Still need to have the heads ported, flowed, fly cut, carb manifolds made up. Then the rear wheel alignment and creating swing arm and wheel spacers.

Compared to the genuine 16"/18" shod TT2 we have the same swing arm to axle length but are 28mm longer in wheel base. Variance must be in the front trip clamp set up or perhaps in the frame headstock

Also 10mm higher in the rear ride height (probable shock length, but no biggie) May look for an affordable 40mm triple with eccentric cams for the steering stem.

Agshark muffler mated to a Aussie made replica header from SA should do the trick nicely.


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 Post subject: Re: TT1 build
PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 2:41 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 80
Images: 19
Location: Brisbane
Progress is slow and steady, but we are moving forward nonetheless. Carb bell mouths' cnc copied of the factory racer, heads finally completed, SS swinger swapped out for a braced F1 Verlicchi. Rolling it out again to get new axle made and reshim it all for the F1 swinger. Oil line fabrication next and sending Marvic's off to get checked over and treated. Bit more time before the dyno run fun begins.


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 Post subject: Re: TT1 build
PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:23 am
Posts: 1155
You are doing some really nice work there; well worth your time and patience.

Q: I see you have a set of lightened primary gears. And that extra holes are drilled in the center hub of the big gear---between the threaded holes. Do those holes go all the way through the gear, or stop short of that? I have a set with them drilled all the way through (by a well-known Pantah racer hot-rodder in the US), and cannot see how oil will NOT seep through behind the clutch basket. Have not decided how to solve this, and will not till I get there. But, how about you?

Thanks,
MikeV


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 Post subject: Re: TT1 build
PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 6:09 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:38 am
Posts: 44
Location: New Zealand
618F1 wrote:
You are doing some really nice work there; well worth your time and patience.

Q: I see you have a set of lightened primary gears. And that extra holes are drilled in the center hub of the big gear---between the threaded holes. Do those holes go all the way through the gear, or stop short of that? I have a set with them drilled all the way through (by a well-known Pantah racer hot-rodder in the US), and cannot see how oil will NOT seep through behind the clutch basket. Have not decided how to solve this, and will not till I get there. But, how about you?

Thanks,
MikeV


Mike, How about pressing some aluminium rod into those through-holes. Standard practice in two stroke cranks. Epoxy cannot be trusted.
Yet another example of feel-good modifications compromising otherwise good parts.


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 Post subject: Re: TT1 build
PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 6:56 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 80
Images: 19
Location: Brisbane
618F1 wrote:
You are doing some really nice work there; well worth your time and patience.

Q: I see you have a set of lightened primary gears. And that extra holes are drilled in the center hub of the big gear---between the threaded holes. Do those holes go all the way through the gear, or stop short of that? I have a set with them drilled all the way through (by a well-known Pantah racer hot-rodder in the US), and cannot see how oil will NOT seep through behind the clutch basket. Have not decided how to solve this, and will not till I get there. But, how about you?

Thanks,
MikeV


Hi Mike,

Apologies on the delay, to be honest I can't recall if they are all the way through. I bought all the lightened internals from Ed Millich in USA, I should have asked him to check the full set as the set that came ended up binding so I had to unfortunately discard some parts : (

Ed


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 Post subject: Re: TT1 build
PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 1:04 pm 
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Posts: 1155
I hope I have not given you nightmares now Ed, but that is exactly what I have, acquired second-hand from a different well-known (here) F1 builder. Cannot see how oil will not seep out. Let me know what Ed M says, or what happens when you fire it up.

Thanks for the comments Nick. Had considered epoxy (will not now), or set screws, or a very thin gasket - the latter works where the starter fits. Still, why is this necessary for a custom-modified part?

MikeV


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 Post subject: Re: TT1 build
PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 4:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:50 am
Posts: 78
Images: 1
Location: Scotland
nick gill wrote:
618F1 wrote:
You are doing some really nice work there; well worth your time and patience.

Q: I see you have a set of lightened primary gears. And that extra holes are drilled in the center hub of the big gear---between the threaded holes. Do those holes go all the way through the gear, or stop short of that? I have a set with them drilled all the way through (by a well-known Pantah racer hot-rodder in the US), and cannot see how oil will NOT seep through behind the clutch basket. Have not decided how to solve this, and will not till I get there. But, how about you?

Thanks,
MikeV


Mike, How about pressing some aluminium rod into those through-holes. Standard practice in two stroke cranks. Epoxy cannot be trusted.
Yet another example of feel-good modifications compromising otherwise good parts.


I used to use delrin or acetal in the crank not alloy when I raced TZ"s many moons ago, the reason in doing that was to increase crankcase pressure.

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 Post subject: Re: TT1 build
PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 9:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2016 2:38 am
Posts: 44
Location: New Zealand
Sam wrote:
I used to use delrin or acetal in the crank not alloy when I raced TZ"s many moons ago, the reason in doing that was to increase crankcase pressure.


Yes good point Sam, we used use Acetal (Delrin is just a dupont brand) in webs in the open upper halves, screw fixed onto the webs. It is no good as an interference material (plugs) and Ive had and seen factory installed plugs come out and it gets messy when they start clipping the conrod. Therefore the only materials we've ever plugged with is Tungsten alloy and aluminium. Nowadays we discard primary compression altogether and run full circle cranks (windage) in large crankcase volumes as part of an entirely different resonant induction scheme.
In this instance (ducati) it is quite close to the center of rotation so you'd probably get away with it but I would still go for aluminium given the choice.


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