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 Post subject: Re: new adventure engine TT1
PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 4:44 am
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The whork in progress.....


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 Post subject: Re: new adventure engine TT1
PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 4:44 am
Posts: 1783
Images: 7
test pressure oil pump motor.

hello friends, I have never seen nesun post or publication about this, in my opinion, important checks to be carried out to check the engine oil pressure nell'iumpianto lubrication.

I used a crankcase pantah, with only one output of the engine oil, and I specifically use the hole is positioned where the bulb engine oil.

when you start an engine block for the first time, it is important to load and well fill the engine oil lubrication system, with the power of the starter motor, without mounting the glow ignition behavior.

I take off the valve covers, and expect to see the amount of oil that reaches the warheads.

I have a pressure in the lubricating engine oil, 3 bars, measured out of the crankcase, if it is, it means that the drive shaft comes an abundant amount of engine oil.

done this, you can proceed with the setting in motion of the engine block.

when the bike is turned on you should be on the 5-6 bar.

I used titanium connecting rods Pankl, and a drive shaft of a 748 r, the connecting rods are very far apart on the axis coupling, because they are driven by the piston pins.

the crankshaft from the ignition has been blocked off, is that the hole on the shaft toothed gear.

who has a side cover of the dry clutch Ducati 851, there is a practical hole in proximity of the bushing is housed where the crankshaft, there is all the most truthful, and the pressure will be the actual one that goes directly into the tree motor.

I hope you understand my speech, excuse my English, but tonight I wanted to write a monologue Dante


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 Post subject: Re: new adventure engine TT1
PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 10:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2013 7:13 am
Posts: 268
Quote:
hello friends, I have never seen nesun post or publication about this, in my opinion, important checks to be carried out to check the engine oil pressure nell'iumpianto lubrication.

I used a crankcase pantah, with only one output of the engine oil, and I specifically use the hole is positioned where the bulb engine oil.

when you start an engine block for the first time, it is important to load and well fill the engine oil lubrication system, with the power of the starter motor, without mounting the glow ignition behavior.

I take off the valve covers, and expect to see the amount of oil that reaches the warheads.

I have a pressure in the lubricating engine oil, 3 bars, measured out of the crankcase, if it is, it means that the drive shaft comes an abundant amount of engine oil.

done this, you can proceed with the setting in motion of the engine block.

when the bike is turned on you should be on the 5-6 bar.

I used titanium connecting rods Pankl, and a drive shaft of a 748 r, the connecting rods are very far apart on the axis coupling, because they are driven by the piston pins.

the crankshaft from the ignition has been blocked off, is that the hole on the shaft toothed gear.

who has a side cover of the dry clutch Ducati 851, there is a practical hole in proximity of the bushing is housed where the crankshaft, there is all the most truthful, and the pressure will be the actual one that goes directly into the tree motor.

I hope you understand my speech, excuse my English, but tonight I wanted to write a monologue Dante


Carlo, and of "corse" other knowledgeable ingegneri :-)

Great advice to turn over an engine untill the oil comes to all places it should go, surely saves a few hours of running time before the next rebuild. Turning it over by hand, without plugs, gives you the chance to hear for any "strange" noises which You wouldn't be able to hear with the electric starter engaged.

When You say the Pankl rods are far apart on the crankshaft (or as You say "on the axis coupling"), do You mean that the rods are narrower than the standard rods ?
I always thought that there were two types of interference on the bigend : the diameter of the crankshaft versus the diameter of the bigend of the rod and then there is the width of the crankshaft between the journals and the two bigends.
If the bigends are narrower, there is more play between them and the crankshaft and some (a lot ?) of oil would escape between them and presumably there would be loss of oil pressure ?
On the old Pantah that would be a free play of 0.15 to 0.35 mm.

And with "driven by the piston pins" , You mean that the bigend is "floating" and the piston-pin to small-end clearance is so little that it guides the rod onto the crankshaft ?

When Your "translater" is too busy sending new year's cards, let me know, and I will translate some difficult parts into "Dante's language" :D :D

buon anno a tutti

ducadini

_________________
Nego i ricordi peggiori, richiamo i migliori pensieri


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 Post subject: Re: new adventure engine TT1
PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 4:44 am
Posts: 1783
Images: 7
you must excuse me, I know that it is very difficult to translate.

Now I try again !!

The shaft of the motor 748R is equal to the outside, but it is different on the coupling axis.

The connecting rods are far apart, but they are very wide where we are housed bushings.

The oil inlet hole parallel to the connecting rods, is placed in a strategic way, and the axial clearance is compatible with the distance between the two rods.

The piston pin, has an axial clearance of 1 tenth of a millimeter or so, to keep the connecting rod on the crankshaft axis.

W Dante!!


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 Post subject: Re: new adventure engine TT1
PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 10:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 5:55 pm
Posts: 100
Location: Illinois
I have decided to follow Carlo's pics and do some drilling on the clutch basket and gears for my Pantah race engine. The clutch basket turned out great, but how in the hell do you drill the primary gear?!?! I am assuming that it is hardened steel since my drill bits will barely make a dent in it. So before I ruin anything or burn up a ton of bits I thought it wold be best to seek advice from guys who have sone it before.

I did an internet search and found carbide tipped bits seemed to be the concensus. Some guys even recommended carbide masonry bits. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Dave


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 Post subject: Re: new adventure engine TT1
PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 4:01 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:56 am
Posts: 112
Patience Dave, That's the secret.
I machine both crank and primary gears (and all the other bits too) using the usual carbide lathe tooling to thin the gear widths. The primary gears etc can be drilled through with relative ease using a well ground high speed steel drill bit as long as it is ground correctly. Back off the trailing edge of the centre portion of the drill tip to create a better clearance. If the drill begins to rub at all then the whole plot fails. Take it real easy with the speed, and LOADS OF COOLANT. Carbide drills are great for production work, but you need absolute rigidity in both the machine and fixture to compliment the extra associated cost.

Take it easy.


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 Post subject: Re: new adventure engine TT1
PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 5:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:36 pm
Posts: 205
ducadini wrote:
Quote:
hello friends, I have never seen nesun post or publication about this, in my opinion, important checks to be carried out to check the engine oil pressure nell'iumpianto lubrication.

I used a crankcase pantah, with only one output of the engine oil, and I specifically use the hole is positioned where the bulb engine oil.

when you start an engine block for the first time, it is important to load and well fill the engine oil lubrication system, with the power of the starter motor, without mounting the glow ignition behavior.

I take off the valve covers, and expect to see the amount of oil that reaches the warheads.

I have a pressure in the lubricating engine oil, 3 bars, measured out of the crankcase, if it is, it means that the drive shaft comes an abundant amount of engine oil.

done this, you can proceed with the setting in motion of the engine block.

when the bike is turned on you should be on the 5-6 bar.

I used titanium connecting rods Pankl, and a drive shaft of a 748 r, the connecting rods are very far apart on the axis coupling, because they are driven by the piston pins.

the crankshaft from the ignition has been blocked off, is that the hole on the shaft toothed gear.

who has a side cover of the dry clutch Ducati 851, there is a practical hole in proximity of the bushing is housed where the crankshaft, there is all the most truthful, and the pressure will be the actual one that goes directly into the tree motor.

I hope you understand my speech, excuse my English, but tonight I wanted to write a monologue Dante


Carlo, and of "corse" other knowledgeable ingegneri :-)

Great advice to turn over an engine untill the oil comes to all places it should go, surely saves a few hours of running time before the next rebuild. Turning it over by hand, without plugs, gives you the chance to hear for any "strange" noises which You wouldn't be able to hear with the electric starter engaged.

When You say the Pankl rods are far apart on the crankshaft (or as You say "on the axis coupling"), do You mean that the rods are narrower than the standard rods ?
I always thought that there were two types of interference on the bigend : the diameter of the crankshaft versus the diameter of the bigend of the rod and then there is the width of the crankshaft between the journals and the two bigends.
If the bigends are narrower, there is more play between them and the crankshaft and some (a lot ?) of oil would escape between them and presumably there would be loss of oil pressure ?
On the old Pantah that would be a free play of 0.15 to 0.35 mm.

And with "driven by the piston pins" , You mean that the bigend is "floating" and the piston-pin to small-end clearance is so little that it guides the rod onto the crankshaft ?

When Your "translater" is too busy sending new year's cards, let me know, and I will translate some difficult parts into "Dante's language" :D :D

buon anno a tutti

ducadini


all the production ti rods, and all 4v rods from the 996 onwards are small end located. instead of having their sideways movement controlled at the big end, they have a small amount of side clearance at the small end which locates them. from memory, they're 20mm wide at both ends, whereas the older big end located rods are 21mm wide. assembled they have about 2mm side movement at the big end, and 0.4mm (?) at the small end.

you need pistons to suit, as if they aren't located at the small end they will move quite a bit. it's fine statically, but i'm told when running they tend to have a lot of blowby.


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 Post subject: Re: new adventure engine TT1
PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 5:49 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 4:44 am
Posts: 1783
Images: 7
sports wrote:
Patience Dave, That's the secret.
I machine both crank and primary gears (and all the other bits too) using the usual carbide lathe tooling to thin the gear widths. The primary gears etc can be drilled through with relative ease using a well ground high speed steel drill bit as long as it is ground correctly. Back off the trailing edge of the centre portion of the drill tip to create a better clearance. If the drill begins to rub at all then the whole plot fails. Take it real easy with the speed, and LOADS OF COOLANT. Carbide drills are great for production work, but you need absolute rigidity in both the machine and fixture to compliment the extra associated cost.

Take it easy.


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 Post subject: Re: new adventure engine TT1
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 7:56 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:03 am
Posts: 360
Hello Carlo...
Could you please share how you make your spark plug inserts. I'm in need of such a repair.
Best Regards...
Flattop900


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 Post subject: Re: new adventure engine TT1
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 9:06 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 4:44 am
Posts: 1783
Images: 7
Hello, there's not much to explain, you have to create the original thread of the large candle of a brass hexagon, and prick it with the diameter of the candle you want to put into use .. ;)


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