hello friends, I have never seen nesun post or publication about this, in my opinion, important checks to be carried out to check the engine oil pressure nell'iumpianto lubrication.

I used a crankcase pantah, with only one output of the engine oil, and I specifically use the hole is positioned where the bulb engine oil.

when you start an engine block for the first time, it is important to load and well fill the engine oil lubrication system, with the power of the starter motor, without mounting the glow ignition behavior.

I take off the valve covers, and expect to see the amount of oil that reaches the warheads.

I have a pressure in the lubricating engine oil, 3 bars, measured out of the crankcase, if it is, it means that the drive shaft comes an abundant amount of engine oil.

done this, you can proceed with the setting in motion of the engine block.

when the bike is turned on you should be on the 5-6 bar.

I used titanium connecting rods Pankl, and a drive shaft of a 748 r, the connecting rods are very far apart on the axis coupling, because they are driven by the piston pins.

the crankshaft from the ignition has been blocked off, is that the hole on the shaft toothed gear.

who has a side cover of the dry clutch Ducati 851, there is a practical hole in proximity of the bushing is housed where the crankshaft, there is all the most truthful, and the pressure will be the actual one that goes directly into the tree motor.

I hope you understand my speech, excuse my English, but tonight I wanted to write a monologue Dante

Carlo, and of "corse" other knowledgeable ingegneri

Great advice to turn over an engine untill the oil comes to all places it should go, surely saves a few hours of running time before the next rebuild. Turning it over by hand, without plugs, gives you the chance to hear for any "strange" noises which You wouldn't be able to hear with the electric starter engaged.

When You say the Pankl rods are far apart on the crankshaft (or as You say "on the axis coupling"), do You mean that the rods are narrower than the standard rods ?
I always thought that there were two types of interference on the bigend : the diameter of the crankshaft versus the diameter of the bigend of the rod and then there is the width of the crankshaft between the journals and the two bigends.
If the bigends are narrower, there is more play between them and the crankshaft and some (a lot ?) of oil would escape between them and presumably there would be loss of oil pressure ?
On the old Pantah that would be a free play of 0.15 to 0.35 mm.

And with "driven by the piston pins" , You mean that the bigend is "floating" and the piston-pin to small-end clearance is so little that it guides the rod onto the crankshaft ?

When Your "translater" is too busy sending new year's cards, let me know, and I will translate some difficult parts into "Dante's language"

buon anno a tutti

ducadini

Patience Dave, That's the secret.
I machine both crank and primary gears (and all the other bits too) using the usual carbide lathe tooling to thin the gear widths. The primary gears etc can be drilled through with relative ease using a well ground high speed steel drill bit as long as it is ground correctly. Back off the trailing edge of the centre portion of the drill tip to create a better clearance. If the drill begins to rub at all then the whole plot fails. Take it real easy with the speed, and LOADS OF COOLANT. Carbide drills are great for production work, but you need absolute rigidity in both the machine and fixture to compliment the extra associated cost.

Take it easy.